Answer:
d. All of the above.
Step-by-step explanation:
In his "The Cruise of the Snark", Jack London writes about his own personal adventures sailing. This memoir is a non-fictional account of the author and his wife while traveling across the South Pacific in 1907.
The given passage/excerpt is taken from Chapter 6: A Royal Sport of the book. Here, London describes the sight he saw, that of a man surfing with poise and great expertise. He describes the man as "erect, full-statured, not struggling frantically in that wild movement, not buried and crushed and buffeted by those mighty monsters . . . flying through the air, flying forward, flying fast..."
Through this description of the surfer, we can know that London had expected the man to be crushed by the waves but at the same time, was amazed and respect the man and his abilities to surf that way.
Thus, the correct answer is option d.