PLEASE HELP THIS IS WORTH A 100 PTS
For Stunning Landscapes, Try Time Exposure Photos
Okay, I'm a bit old-fashioned. I still think no digital camera in the world will give me the depth of color and detail of my old Pentax K1000, a traditional 35 millimeter film camera. But recently I discovered how to create even more spectacular photos with my Pentax, by holding the shutter open and shooting "time exposures." Holding the shutter open longer will absorb more light, which accounts for the richer detail that can be achieved. However, any movement will cause a blur, so time exposures work best for landscapes. You'll be amazed how the detail in the photos will make mountains, trees, and even the city skyline come alive.
Have I caught your interest enough to try time exposures? If so, you'll be glad to know that you can start this hobby for pretty cheap. First, see if there's an old 35mm camera lying around the house that your parents will let you use. If not, they're easy to find at garage sales or on eBay for under $50. Just make sure the camera has an exposure setting marked with a "B" (for bulb). This setting will allow the shutter to stay open as long as you want. You also need to buy a cable release. This is a cable that attaches to the top of the camera. It has a little plunger on one end that lets you open and close the shutter without touching or moving the camera. Used camera shops will stock this item in various lengths. It should cost from $10 to $20. Finally, it's a good idea to have a tripod, which is a three-legged base that you can mount your camera on. But I wouldn't purchase one until you know you like this hobby. For now, you can just prop the camera on something sturdy.
Now comes the fun part. Just go outside and find a nice piece of scenery you'd like to shoot. Set the camera up on a stool or bench. Attach the cable to the top of the camera, making sure it's switched to the "B" setting. Frame your shot, focus the camera, and hold down the plunger. You should hear a click as the shutter opens. After a few seconds, let the plunger back up and advance the film to the next shot. Try different angles and different lengths of exposure, from a few seconds to an hour or more. Also try going out late at night and taking longer shots of nighttime objects like the Moon.
Of course, with a non-digital camera, you won't be able to view the shots right away. You'll have to wait for the film to come back. So here's what I suggest: "Bracket" your shots, which means keeping track of how long you kept the shutter open for each photo. Just keep a notebook with you and write down something like "#1, 30 sec." That way, when you get some great shots back, you'll know how you achieved them!
What is the author's most likely purpose for writing this selection?
to get readers interested in time exposure photography
to explain what equipment is needed to take time exposures
to demonstrate the author's knowledge about photography
to argue that digital cameras take inferior pictures