Question

When does a wind wave become a shallow-water wave as it approaches the shore? What factors influence the breaking of a wind wave?

a) Wind waves become shallow-water waves when the water depth is less than half the wave's wavelength. Breaking is influenced by wave height and wind speed.
b) Wind waves become shallow-water waves when the water depth is greater than the wave's wavelength. Breaking is influenced by water temperature and air pressure.
c) Wind waves become shallow-water waves when the water depth is less than the wave's period. Breaking is influenced by moon phases and tidal currents.
d) Wind waves become shallow-water waves when the water depth is greater than the wave's period. Breaking is influenced by wave frequency and wave power.

Answer 1

A wind wave becomes a shallow-water wave when the water depth is less than half the wave's wavelength, influenced by factors like wave height and wind speed.

Step-by-step explanation:

A wind wave becomes a shallow-water wave when the water depth is less than half the wave's wavelength. This occurs as waves move closer to the shore, with the decreasing water depth causing a change in wave behavior.

Several factors influence the breaking of a wind wave. Primarily, the height of the wave and the speed of the wind are significant factors. Moreover, as waves approach the shore, they encounter shallower water which causes them to slow down, increase in height, and ultimately break. The process of breaking is also known as shoaling, where the wave energy is compressed into a smaller volume of water, resulting in higher waves.

The slope or steepness of the beach can also affect how waves break. A steeper slope can lead to more abrupt and powerful wave breaks, while a gentle slope might cause the waves to break more gently and farther from shore.