Question

Of the following physical changes that occur to waves as they move into shallow water, which is/are true? Choose all that apply.

a) Wave speed increases
b) Wavelength decreases
c) Wave height decreases
d) Wave energy increases

Answer 1

Waves experience a decrease in speed and wavelength as they move into shallow water, while the wave height increases due to compression of energy into a smaller volume. Wave energy remains constant unless affected by other factors.

Step-by-step explanation:

Regarding the physical changes that occur to waves as they move into shallow water, certain dynamics can be observed. As waves enter shallow water, wave speed decreases because waves are traveling over a shorter depth. Similarly, the wavelength of the wave also decreases as the waves are compressed and because the speed of the wave is reduced. Unlike wave speed and wavelength, wave height tends to increase due to the energy of the wave being compressed into a smaller volume, an effect known as shoaling. Wave energy generally remains constant unless it is being absorbed by the ground or used in other processes like generating currents; otherwise, the energy is conserved and thus is not technically increasing as the waves reach shallow water. Therefore, from the given options: (b) Wavelength decreases (d) Wave height increases are true when waves move into shallow water. The statement about wave energy increasing is not typically true, as the energy is conserved, and while the statement about wave speed increasing is a common misconception, in reality, wave speed decreases in shallower water.