Final answer:
Waves approaching the shore undergo shoaling, resulting in higher waves that can cause coastal erosion. Observing wave characteristics in a simulated wave tank helps understand these changes and their impact on coastal management. Diffraction is also an important wave property to consider in coastal dynamics.
Step-by-step explanation:
Physical Changes of Waves Approaching Shore
When waves reach the shore, there are noticeable changes due to the decreasing water depth. The most significant effect is shoaling, where the wave energy is compressed into a smaller volume of water, resulting in higher waves. This process can cause increased erosion and is important in coastal management.
To study wave behavior, one can create a wave tank simulation with sand to represent a beach, and observe the changes in wave properties like wavelength, period, frequency, and amplitude. Changes in the beach's steepness can also affect the breaking point of waves. Additionally, wave phenomena such as diffraction occur when waves encounter edges and move into shadow regions behind them, which is crucial for understanding wave properties.
In real-world applications, understanding these physical changes is vital for constructing effective breakwater systems and protecting coastal communities from the damaging effects of wave energy.