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In what zone (and how close to shore) are longshore currents found, and how are they created by ocean waves?

User Jfathman
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Final answer:

Longshore currents are located in the nearshore zone and are generated by waves approaching the coast at an angle, resulting in water moving parallel to the shoreline. They are important for understanding coastal sediment transport and erosion.

Step-by-step explanation:

Longshore currents are dominant currents that are typically found in the nearshore zone, which extends from the low-tide line to beyond where waves influence sedimentation, also known as the breaker zone. These currents are created by the energy of ocean waves that approach the shore at an angle. As waves break, they push water along the coast in the same direction that the waves travel. The continual flow of water in this way generates the longshore current, running parallel to the shore.

Creation of Longshore Currents

When the waves hit the shore at an angle, the force of the water is distributed not only towards the land but also along the shoreline. This lateral movement of water is what causes the longshore current. The strength and direction of these currents can vary based on several factors, including wave energy, the angle of wave approach, the shape of the coastline, and the gradient of the sea floor near the shore.

Importance of Understanding Longshore Currents

Understanding longshore currents is critical for coastal management. Often, these currents are responsible for transporting sediment along the coast, affecting beach composition, and can play a significant role in coastal erosion and the formation of features like sandbars and spits. Awareness of how these currents operate assists scientists and engineers in preventing erosion and designing coastal protection structures.

User Wilson Gramer
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