Final answer:
Wave 'bigness' is described by the height and energy of a wave, with the wave steepness parameter H/L being key. Fully developed seas with persistent strong winds can create very high waves, which become even higher due to shoaling near the shore. Extreme wave heights, like the 50-foot waves in central California, result largely from the transfer of energy from the wind to the water.
Step-by-step explanation:
Understanding Wave 'Bigness' and Steepness
When discussing how 'big' waves can get when the sea is fully developed, we refer to their height and the energy they possess. The wave steepness parameter, represented by H/L (height H over wavelength L), is crucial for describing the 'bigness' of a wave. A fully developed sea, owing to persistent strong winds and long-lasting storms, can produce exceptionally high waves. These waves get even higher as they approach the shore due to the effect of shoaling.
The steepness of a wave influences its potential to break and its overall stability. Waves become unstable and tend to break when the wave steepness exceeds a certain threshold. The maximum wave steepness for deep-water waves is generally around 1/7, meaning that when the wave height is greater than 1/7th of the wavelength, the wave is likely to break.
Moreover, waves can reach extreme heights in specific conditions. For instance, central California can see waves up to 50 feet high. Waves are generally created by the energy transfer from the wind to the water. The shoaling effect occurs as waves reach the shore, where the water depth decreases, causing the energy to compress and the waves to increase in height.