Final answer:
Wave refraction is the direction change of a wave as it approaches the shore due to the wave base interacting with the seafloor, and shoaling causes wave energy to increase as depth decreases. Diffraction occurs when waves pass through an opening and spread out, which is important in harbor design for wave protection. Geological sedimentation patterns like onlapping and offlapping also provide insight into historical sea-level changes.
Step-by-step explanation:
The change in direction of a wave as it approaches the shore due to interactions with the seafloor is known as refraction. As waves enter shallower water near the shore, the part of the wave over the shallower seabed slows down due to friction with the seafloor, causing the waves to bend and align more closely with the underwater contours. This is accentuated by the effect of shoaling, where the wave energy is compressed into a smaller volume as water depth decreases, leading to higher waves.
Diffraction is another important phenomenon that occurs when waves pass through an opening, such as the gap in a breakwater, causing the waves to spread out. In the context of harbors, understanding the angle at which waves are most mitigated can be determined numerically using the concept of wave diffraction to find the angles that provide the best protection for boats within the harbor.
Additionally, geological processes such as the rapid drop of the seafloor in front of uplifting mountains and the patterns of sea-level changes indicate the complex interplay between wave action and sedimentary processes. These changes can be seen in onlapping and offlapping patterns in geological records, and these sedimentation patterns also provide insight into historical sea-level changes.