Question

Which of the following best describes ocean waves?

a. They are the movement of water
b. They are the movement of energy through water
c. They typically break (crash) in the deep ocean
d. They are typically elliptical (oval-shaped) in the deep ocean

Answer 1

Ocean waves are best described as the movement of energy through water, where water particles exhibit orbital progressive movement as the wave energy passes through.

Step-by-step explanation:

The best description of ocean waves is that they are the movement of energy through water, not the water itself. When energy travels through the ocean, it causes the water to move in a cyclical pattern, characterized by crests and troughs. The water particles actually move in a circular motion as the wave passes, which is only slightly elliptical in deep water, but the overall wave shape is not elliptical. Ocean waves are an example of orbital progressive waves, where the energy of the wave moves forward, while water particles return to their original position after the energy has passed.

Ocean waves do not typically break in the deep ocean; waves usually break when they reach shallower water near the shore. The breaking of a wave is a result of the wave steepening as it moves into shallower depths, causing the top of the wave to move faster than the bottom, leading to the distinctive crashing that is observed at the beach.