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List the factors that influence the height, length, and period of a wave and describe the motion of water within a wave

A) Wind speed, Wind duration, Fetch, Wave steepness
B) Temperature, Humidity, Pressure, Coriolis effect
C) Latitude, Altitude, Ocean currents, Atmospheric circulation
D) Seafloor depth, Salinity, Density, Tidal forces

User Mihailo
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Final answer:

The factors that influence the height, length, and period of a wave are wind speed, wind duration, fetch, and wave steepness. The motion of water within a wave involves vertical oscillation.

Step-by-step explanation:

The factors that influence the height, length, and period of a wave include wind speed, wind duration, fetch, and wave steepness. These factors are all related to the characteristics of the wind that generates the wave. For example, high wind speeds and longer durations of wind can create larger waves. The fetch, which is the distance over which the wind blows, also affects the size of the wave. Additionally, the steepness of the wave, which is the ratio of wave height to wavelength, can impact the wave's behavior. If the wave is too steep, it may break.

The motion of water within a wave involves vertical oscillation. As the wave passes through the water, the water particles move in a circular motion. The motion of the water particles becomes smaller as we go deeper below the surface. At the surface, the motion is the greatest, creating the visible waves. As the wave moves forward, the motion of the water particles propagates in the same direction as the wave.

User Chris Slade
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