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in shallow water, are water particles in the wave crest ahead of or behind those at the bottom of the wave?

User Shaun Keon
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Final answer:

Water particles near the wave crest in shallow water do not travel ahead or behind those at the bottom; instead, they move mostly up and down within the wave's energy as it passes through.

Step-by-step explanation:

In shallow water, the particles at the wave crest move in a circular motion, but they do not travel ahead or behind significantly compared to the particles at the bottom of the wave. There is a common Misconception Alert that suggests water waves push water longitudinally from one place to another. However, water particles mostly move up and down with the wave's energy passing through them, but staying relatively in the same place horizontally. When waves reach shallower water, an effect known as shoaling occurs, where the wave energy is compressed into a smaller vertical space, causing the waves to grow in height and allowing surfers to ride along their crests.

User Matthew Buckett
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