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Which force acts on a ocean wave as it nears the shore, causing it to act differently?

2 Answers

5 votes
the answer it is ........
FRICTION
User Igor Vaschuk
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The answer is friction. As ocean wave approach the shoreline, they are affected by the sea bed through process such as refraction, shoaling, bottom friction and wave-breaking. However wave breaking also occurs in deep water when the waves re too steep. If the waves meet major structurer or abrupt changes in the coastline, they will be transformed by diffraction.
User Kaksat
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